It's me," said Kotick, bobbing in the surf
and looking like a little white slug.
When they saw Mother Ceres, they sat down on the crest of the surf wave, and let it toss them ashore at her feet.
But young people's tears have very little saltness or acidity in them, and do not inflame the eyes so much as those of grown persons; so that it is not to be wondered at, if, a few moments afterwards, Proserpina was sporting through the hall almost as merrily as she and the four sea nymphs had sported along the edge of the surf wave.
The sound of the surf was loud, hollow, and menacing, and a heavy swell was setting in.
They stood for a moment, while the surf rumbled and shook the house.
On the eighteenth day, at midnight, she launched the canoe through the surf and started back for Hikueru.
The long strips of land, forming the linear islets, have been raised only to that height to which the surf can throw fragments of coral, and the wind heap up calcareous sand.
When we arrived at the head of the lagoon, we crossed a narrow islet, and found a great surf breaking on the windward coast.
We were not far off the line the wind made with the western edge of the promontory, and I watched in the hope that some set of the current or send of the sea would drift us past before we reached the surf.
It partook of the magnitude and volume of distant thunder, and it came to us directly from leeward, rising above the crash of the surf and travelling directly in the teeth of the storm.
But as I studied the surf which beat upon the beach, I said, "Still bad, but not so bad.
They were close to the line of surf
now; they had passed it, indeed, a little on the left, and the boat was drifting.
A strange name wakes up memories; the printed words scent the smoky atmosphere of to-day faintly, with the subtle and penetrating perfume as of land breezes breathing through the starlight of bygone nights; a signal fire gleams like a jewel on the high brow of a sombre cliff; great trees, the advanced sentries of immense forests, stand watchful and still over sleeping stretches of open water; a line of white surf
thunders on an empty beach, the shallow water foams on the reefs; and green islets scattered through the calm of noonday lie upon the level of a polished sea, like a handful of emeralds on a buckler of steel.
He has the looks and manner of a Special Forces colonel and surfs
with an elite team of training-obsessed fellow tow-in fanatics and swooping helicopters.
Rider who surfs
with right foot as lead foot: -- foot